Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Switzerland, May 28-June 6

Switzerland - what can we say? Mountains, cheese, chocolate, cheese, the cleanest toilets in the world, cheese, mountains, etc
Our mate John ex Wellington who's now at the WHO in Geneva put us up - at right is the view from his 2nd storey apartment, old and spacey, in the old part of steep-streeted Gex, 20 minutes northwest of Geneva on the French side.

The Fri night we arrive it turns out to be the town's big 'Bird' festival with fair rides and candles in paper lanterns (left) and fireworks - we never did figure out what it was about the big model bird being paraded round (but not burnt at the climax, to our disappointment)
Sam "The flight over was olny 1 and a half hours long, it takes twice as long to get to the Airport from our house. The airport is half in france and half in swissterland. We got off the Swiss side and went to get our rental car. It turned out that we had to go to the french half with the same company because it was cheaper. "
and ..."john's flat consisted of three rather lagre and there were plenty of air bed to sleep on. he had his own secret garden where we ate breakfast."


The carousel in Geneva Botanic Gardens boasts the best animal carriages in the world.

Swimming in Lake Geneva - it had to be done though the weather had only just warmed up before we got there and it was on the cool side. Fancied I saw Team NZ and Oracle workiing hard and sipping champers out on the lake.


The path to the caves at Vallorbe, through which flows the largest underground river in southern Europe (the Orbe).






Distances are thankfully small in Switzerland so it was an easy drive to the capital Bern, stopping at Chateau de Chillon, left, the most-visited building in the country. Big, old and lots of gruesome stories...
... such as here is Ellie in the (very) spot where some poor sod of a Count was kept

chained to this pillar for six YEARS, prompting Byron who had a thing about this chateau, to write a poem about him. Probably he'd have preferred the key.



A not so secret passage in the chateau, Lara at the latrines, and up in the very top of the Keep.












Cheese making at the main Gruyere factory at the bottom of the wee but steep hill leading to the town of Gruyeres, complete with fairytale (or so guidebooks said, slightly exagerratedely) castle. We didn't attempt a 2nd chateau - one a day is the limit.



Plus the kids' fave place of all was calling - and here's the only pic we have of it cos we left the camera in the car - the Cailler chocolatfabrik in Broc halfway between Montreux and Bern.
Ellie: "My fab parts were going to the zoo and the chocolate factory. We listened to the story of chocolate and how it was made [with spotlights, dry ice and working models - cool]. Then we came to a room where you could watch the people making the chocolate and after we tryed lots of diffrent tipes."
Lara: "We took lots of bars but then found lots of chocolate in the trying room."
By our camp beside the river Aare in Bern. Notions we'd be swimming nixed by its extremely high flow (it doubled the day before we got there to 300 cumes) and cool temps (10 degrees in the water), and not quite warm enough in the otherwise brilliant Mizali pools, essentially an extension of the river tucked in under the old city which is perched up on a promontory.

Art class at the Paul Klee gallery - we chose that over trawling them round Klee's pictures themselves (art's a bit like tourism, you can't always believe the hype).



Bern bridge, with the bear park at one end.






As promised, the bear park.
Rosa: "I liked Bern zoo and at the bridge we saw the bears, 2 cubs and a mum and a dad bear."







With pub-going strictly rationed, we like to choose our spots - here a combo of Bern's version of Big Ben and the local roadworks.


Barbie by the Aare - BUT they don't have marshmallows! Call these guys civilised? Seems it's an NZed thing.










From Bern we headed to the Alps, and lucked into the fab Valley Hostel in the even fabber Lauterbrunner valley ("the most fabulous valley in Switzerland" a guidebook says). 1000m of sheer rock either side, with 72 waterfalls (we counted about a dozen), gondolas, one of the steepest ever cog railways to Jungfraujoch, Europe's highest railway station (with prices as steep - would've cost at least 314 swiss francs for 2 of us to go - but under 6s free and under 12s only need a 20 franc junior card to travel for a whole year on Swiss trains [1 france equals about NZ$1.10 or 20])

Rosa: "I climbed up the waterfall."
Above, a path cut into solid rock going in behind the Staubbach falls (once you've been through the tunnel, below), Switzerland's highest and just 5 mins walk from the town (and free).



10 out of 10 for picturesque playgrounds, this one with that highest waterfall in behind.

On the cog train, first stop Wenger 1000 m above Lauterbrunner virtually straight up, and no cars there.









Inside the water-carved tunnels of Trammelbach falls, 10 chutes corkscrewing through the rock 2km north of Lauterbrunner.








Sound of Music stuff.










The gondola starts its trip from Schetelberg (sp?) up to Gimmelwald, then Murren, then Birg, then Schilthorn at almost 3000m high (the poor tourist's Jungfraujoch - just 110 francs for 2 adults).


Look closely and you'll find this phonebox is actually a showerstall, in Gimmelwald (a few score people in some lovely chalets, and another playground with a view to die for).


Remember the 'Eiger Sanction' or whatever it was - that's it behind Lara, in Murren.




Lunch with Jungfrau behind, the highest of the Three Big Ones (the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau).



Up and up in the gondola, Eiger behind. After a while, you get a bit viewed out, so it's time for a snowfight.



or a movie - Schilthorn was where 007 on His Majesty's Secret Service was filmed in the late 60s, a fact they never let you forget, featuring it large once you get to the restaurant/viewing platform at the top.







The actual view at the top is worth it though.
Which is more than can be said for the icecreams in the revolving restaurant (though that's what they'll remember....)
Lara: "We went on the gondola to the top of the tallest mountain in Switzerland [2970m, bit higher than Mt Ruapehu but NOT as high as next door Jungfrau at 4500m) and had an ice cream. There was lots of snow."




007 look out.



Our final night out, and fondue, long horns, accordions and "When the Saints" on the cowbells at the Edelweiss restaurant in central Geneva.











Just call us cultural ambassadors.




The queue at what John calls "Geneva's best ice cream bar" after the fondue. Was pretty good sorbet (pineapple and basil one odd combo).



Saying farewell to the lighthouse in Lake Geneva.

Monday, May 24, 2010

UK week 14-15; HMS Belfast (and Chelsea parade, Battersea park, Cliveden)



Top, barbie at Dan and Rachel's, with a post-burger wrestle, our first English bbq as temps have kept climbing, hitting the hottest on Sun-Mon May 23, of round 28 degreees and windless. Above, Chelsea's celebrations on the Sunday following their FA Cup win gaining them the elusive Double for 2010.





Adventure playgrounds like this one at Battersea Park are so cool - real Huckleberry Finn feel and kids encouraged to take risks. On a Sunday there was pool, table tennis and craft stuff inside too.

George spins Lara round, even more un-nerving this way up.





At another war memorial, this one at Tower Hill to the thousands dead in merchant ships during WW2

Aye aye, we prepare to board the HMS Belfast museum ship, seen behind. The only surviving warship from the Second World War still afloat so they say.
Ellie: "It is a really cool war ship that you can go inside. There are different rooms on different floors. We did the bottom floors. The first floor we went on had the washing p[lace where you wash your clothes and the crapenters."



A crew to make Captain Bligh nervous.
Lara: "I liked the ship. There were lots of hands on things. You could touch the injured man in the hospital."
Sam: "My favourite room was the hands-on [Launch exhibition 'How Ships are Built'] and the torpedo one because you can make boats in the hands on and watch movies of torpedoes in the other room."

Climbing down into the boiler room. Amazing to be wedged in among all these pipes where engineers kept this ship going while she fought off Iceland etc
Rosa says: I like going oh the ship I like makiug my own warship.



From war to art, after the ship we caught a free 10 minute dance inside the new "Portvilion" dance bubble set up next to Tower Bridge. The video is funny, but so far we've failed to get this blog to accept our videos.



Next stop, National Trust's Cliveden House, one of England's foremost Italianate estates that was home to Lord and Lady Astor and Party Central in the 1920s. Here is Sam inside some wicker thing at the estate playground.








On guard! The date on the grass says 1668, marking the time and place of a duel between the famously brilliant and famously seductive Baron who built Cliveden, and some husband he cuckolded. Don't know who won.

Swathes of lawn ideal for rolling.









And below the Buckinghamshire house, the Thames where we went for a brief wettish row. Spot the cows cooling their calves behind Sam.
Yeh, it'll do, we'll make an offer.


And to finish our day, we hunted round fenced-off privately owned pondsides such as The Queen Mother Reservoir till we found public access to this great spot at Wraysbury, behind the village green where they were playing cricket. A pleasant dip to cries of Howzat.